Down to the Last Cream Puff
Steven Shapin: The End of Haute Cuisine, 5 August 2010
Au Revoir to All That: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine
by Michael Steinberger.
Bloomsbury, 248 pp., £8.99, July 2010,978 1 4088 0136 9 Show More
by Michael Steinberger.
Bloomsbury, 248 pp., £8.99, July 2010,
“... classic French cuisine – such chefs as Michel Guérard, Alain Chapel, Jean Delaveyne, Jean and Pierre Troisgros. And it was betrayed, Steinberger says, by the media-savvy chef Paul Bocuse, wrongly identified as a leader of nouvelle cuisine. The new cuisine revolution needed its Trotsky, but what it got in Bocuse was its Stalin. What Bocuse did was to erode ... ”