Rachel Nolan

There are​ only two gun stores in Mexico. Throughout the enormous country, which takes three full days to cross by car from top to bottom if you don’t stop, the only places you can legally buy a gun are a shop on a military base in the capital and a shop on another military base in the large northern city of Monterrey. It’s not advisable to drive straight through Mexico any more,...

In​ 1968, Fidel Castro invited an American anthropologist called Oscar Lewis to interview Cubans about their lives. Lewis was famous for an oral history project, conducted in a Mexico City slum, which he had turned into a book called The Children of Sánchez (1961). By recounting a poor family’s struggles and hustles, legal and otherwise, Lewis angered the country’s ruling...

People​ often say at a human rights trial, or in a police procedural or murder mystery, that ‘bones don’t lie.’ But bones can’t speak for themselves and tell us who has done them violence. And those who know may have reason to lie. At trials for crimes against humanity, some of the most eloquent testimony comes not from survivors but from skeletons: a bullet hole, or...

If Colombia​ held a minute’s silence for every victim of its six-decade armed conflict, then no one would speak for the next seventeen years. This fact is mentioned in passing in the 895-page final report of Colombia’s Truth Commission, in a section about the near impossibility of memorialising the conflict. The report tries to leave nothing out. Its findings go beyond the...

It​ was in part allegations of corruption against those around him that caused Brazil’s most important leader before Lula, the dictator turned elected president Getúlio Vargas, to shoot himself in the heart in 1954. But there is no ‘culture of corruption’ in Brazil or Latin America more generally, as outsiders sometimes claim – what would that even mean? It is impunity that makes those who can, steal, and others shrug. ‘Rouba, mas faz’ (‘he steals, but gets things done’) is one expression, and Brazilians have another for what usually happens when a rich or powerful person is investigated or arrested: ‘acaba em pizza’ – it ends up with a pizza, it all comes to nothing. The shocking thing about Car Wash is that anyone went to jail at all. After his 2014 arrest, Renato Duque, a former director at Petrobras, asked his lawyer: ‘What do they think they’re doing? What sort of country is this?’