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Too Specific and Too Vague

Bee Wilson: Curry House Curry, 24 March 2022

Taste Makers: Seven Immigrant Women Who Revolutionised Food in America 
by Mayukh Sen.
Norton, 259 pp., £18.99, January, 978 1 324 00451 6
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The Philosophy of Curry 
by Sejal Sukhadwala.
British Library, 106 pp., £10, March, 978 0 7123 5450 9
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... tiny stainless steel pot arranged on a larger steel plate. There were many varieties of dals and pickles and vegetables sabzi sautéed with spices and different flatbreads and rice cooked with var-ious seasonings and fried dumplings. Only a small percentage of these dishes bore any resemblance to British curry with its copious dayglo sauce and, even ...

Hang up your running shoes

Jon Day: Emil Zatopek, 6 October 2016

Today We Die a Little: The Rise and Fall of Emil Zatopek, Olympic Legend 
by Richard Askwith.
Yellow Jersey, 480 pp., £16.99, April 2016, 978 0 224 10034 2
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Endurance: The Extraordinary Life and Times of Emil Zatopek 
by Rick Broadbent.
Wisden, 320 pp., £16.99, April 2016, 978 1 4729 2022 5
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... He drank strange concoctions that he thought would improve his performance: the juice from jars of pickles; a mixture of lemon juice (for vitamin C) and chalk (he thought the calcium would protect his teeth). He ate the leaves of young birch trees because he had noticed that deer did so. Deer run quickly, he reasoned, so he might too. He experimented with ...

Bible Study in the Basement

Namara Smith: ‘Priestdaddy: A Memoir’, 13 July 2017

Priestdaddy: A Memoir 
by Patricia Lockwood.
Allen Lane, 333 pp., £14.99, May 2017, 978 1 84614 920 7
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... provides moral instruction to his children with his hand dangling in an immense bowl of homemade pickles (‘the only vegetables he ever ate willingly’). When the urge strikes, he shuts himself up in his study to make ‘violent and incomprehensible sounds’ on the electric guitar. As a teenager, Lockwood’s father grew his hair long and played in a ...

Echo is a fangirl

Ange Mlinko, 3 December 2020

Time Lived, without Its Flow 
by Denise Riley.
Picador, 85 pp., £9.99, October 2019, 978 1 5290 1710 6
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Selected Poems: 1976-2016 
by Denise Riley.
Picador, 210 pp., £14.99, October 2019, 978 1 5290 1712 0
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... singing in its waters, ‘flexing my long damp thighs/Now as studded and ridged as the best dill pickles in Whitechapel’. She tries out different registers, different personae:What should I sing out on this gratuitous new instrument?/Not much liking minimalism, I tried out some Messiaen,/Found I was a natural as a bassoon,/indeed the ondes martenot/Simply ...

One of the Lads

Mary Beard, 18 June 1998

Hadrian: The Restless Emperor 
by Anthony Birley.
Routledge, 424 pp., £40, October 1997, 9780415165440
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... to each other on a fleet of tiny boats. (Slaves would be on hand, of course, to rescue the beached pickles.) The best-known and most photographed monument on the site, the ‘Canopus’, with colonnade, canal and miniature temple, once thought to be a monument to Hadrian’s beloved boyfriend, Antinous, is now interpreted as one of these dining areas; here the ...

Mmmm, chicken nuggets

Bee Wilson: The Victorian Restaurant Scene, 15 August 2019

The London Restaurant: 1840-1914 
by Brenda Assael.
Oxford, 239 pp., £60, July 2018, 978 0 19 881760 4
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... for £9.95 at a branch of Wagamama, where it is garnished with a small salad and a few Japanese pickles. Like many British comfort foods, katsu depends on a fine balance between sogginess and crispness. In London in 1885, there was a cheap Italian restaurant (its name and location haven’t survived) where a person could dine on a breaded veal cutlet served ...

Diary

Rebecca Solnit: In the Day of the Postman, 29 August 2013

... corporations by knitting – but understanding the pleasures of knitting or weeding or making pickles might articulate the value of that world outside electronic chatter and distraction, and inside a more stately sense of time. (Of course, for a lot of people this impulse has been sublimated by cooking shows: watching the preparation of food that you will ...

Knife, Stone, Paper

Stephen Sedley: Law Lords, 1 July 2021

English Law under Two Elizabeths: The Late Tudor Legal World and the Present 
by John Baker.
Cambridge, 222 pp., £22.99, January, 978 1 108 94732 9
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The Constitutional Balance 
by John Laws.
Hart, 144 pp., £30, January, 978 1 5099 3545 1
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... almost everything is wide-ranging. He cites the Localism Act 2011, the progeny of Eric (now Lord) Pickles, which ‘tacitly reversed the common law by giving every local authority “power to do anything that individuals generally may do”’ – a formula that embraces acting out of caprice, greed or spite. For good measure it allows ministers to amend or ...

When were you thinking of shooting yourself?

Sophie Pinkham: Mayakovsky, 16 February 2017

Mayakovsky: A Biography 
by Bengt Jangfeldt, translated by Harry Watson.
Chicago, 616 pp., £26.50, January 2015, 978 0 226 05697 5
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Volodya: Selected Works 
by Vladimir Mayakovsky, edited by Rosy Carrick.
Enitharmon, 312 pp., £14.99, November 2015, 978 1 910392 16 4
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... home he yells at his wife for her faults:       that her cabbage soup has got no fat and the pickles           have got no salt.Still, Mayakovsky wasn’t entirely on board with free love. He was acutely jealous of Lili’s other liaisons. In 1919, Roman Jakobson told her sister Elsa that ‘Lili tired of Volodya long ago; he has turned into a ...

Diary

Zain Samir: After the Earthquake, 15 June 2023

... lived there. Some remained standing, but their façades had gone, exposing kitchens where jars of pickles and olives still sat on the shelves, living rooms that had spilled their sofas and cabinets onto the cars parked below. Picture frames hung crookedly on the walls, and curtains fluttered in the air. Roads not blocked by rubble were clogged by lines of ...

The Strange Death of Municipal England

Tom Crewe: Assault on Local Government, 15 December 2016

... response to the public sector bloat which supposedly created Britain’s ruinous deficit. Eric Pickles, the secretary of state for communities and local government between 2010 and 2015, declared that ‘local government is a massive part of public expenditure. It has lived for years on unsustainable growth, unsustainable public finance … People blame ...

Karel Reisz Remembered

LRB Contributors, 12 December 2002

... didn’t give away his origins, his taste in food did. He liked sausages, sauerkraut, tongue, pickles, cucumber salad, and goose liver, which became, on festive occasions, an almost holy object that only Karel could slice and distribute to his congregation of gourmets. He would taste it, pause, then in the Mitteleuropean accent reserved for comedy, he ...

Deleecious

Matthew Bevis: William Hazlitt, 6 November 2008

New Writings of William Hazlitt: Volume I 
edited by Duncan Wu.
Oxford, 507 pp., £120, September 2007, 978 0 19 923573 5
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New Writings of William Hazlitt: Volume II 
edited by Duncan Wu.
Oxford, 553 pp., £120, September 2007, 978 0 19 923574 2
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William Hazlitt: The First Modern Man 
by Duncan Wu.
Oxford, 557 pp., £25, October 2008, 978 0 19 954958 0
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... of Hazlitt is rather dangerous to one’s taste, rather like dining on sweetmeats and supping on pickles. So poignant is he, and so rich, everything seems insipid after him.’ Hazlitt would have been pleased by Mitford’s use of the word ‘insipid’ to describe what he wasn’t. In his essay ‘The Fight’ he spots a ‘lusty man’ in an inn: ‘The ...

Men with Saffron Smiles

Eleanor Birne: Arundhati Roy, 27 July 2017

The Ministry of Utmost Happiness 
by Arundhati Roy.
Hamish Hamilton, 445 pp., £18.99, June 2017, 978 0 241 30397 9
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... laws that lay down who should be loved, and how’. There is blind Mammachi, who runs the family pickles and preserves business; her Rhodes Scholar son, Chacko, and lonely daughter, Ammu; then there are Ammu’s two-egg twins, Estha and Rahel; and there is Sophie Mol, Chacko’s daughter, over from London on a visit. It’s a story about forbidden love ...

Indoor Sport

Florence Sutcliffe-Braithwaite: Mr Sex, 22 February 2024

Polymath: The Life and Professions of Dr Alex Comfort, Author of ‘The Joy of Sex’ 
by Eric Laursen.
AK Press, 740 pp., £27, January, 978 1 84935 496 7
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... of Cooking and it was organised into sections – ‘Starters’, ‘Main Courses’, ‘Sauces & Pickles’ and ‘Problems’ – with entries on topics from ‘penis’ to ‘tongue bath’ to ‘Viennese oyster’ to ‘waterworks’. For years it was rarely out of the bestseller lists.Comfort said his goal was to give couples the information and ...

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