Get Your Authentic Hot Water Here
Steven Poole
Pity the poor customers of Harris + Hoole, a new coffee chain, who discovered that Tesco has a 49 per cent stake in what they thought was an ‘independent’ business. One such customer told the Guardian that she felt ‘upset’ and ‘duped’, since she would never dream of patronising Tesco itself.
In one way this just demonstrates the omnivorous ingenuity of capital in appropriating and selling back to us what looked like a challenge to it. The ‘independence’ of an ‘independent coffee shop’ is now quite likely to be a corporate simulacrum. The manager of Harris + Hoole’s Crouch End branch is reported to have said that head office ‘had instructed her to make the store feel as independent as possible’, which is perhaps only superficially a paradox. ‘We try to be independent,’ she said. ‘We want to be independent. We want to have that feel.’
A rival coffee-shop owner fumed: ‘Tesco isn’t stupid. They don’t want their name to be part of the name [over the door of the coffee shop]. They know it doesn’t match with artisan values they are trying to make money out of.’ Presumably this man isn’t himself trying to make money out of the ‘artisan value’ of pumping hot water through ground coffee beans, instead selling his beverages at cost to his happy customers – though that does raise the question of why they would ever have dreamed of going down the road to Harris + Hoole instead.
But why should ‘artisan values’ be incompatible with corporate backing? The term ‘artisanal’ seems to have leaked into our catering culture from France, where it actually means something. A Parisian bakery offering artisanal bread is promising that it is made from scratch on the premises, rather than frozen elsewhere and finished off in the shop (that would be ‘pain industriel’).
But the unexamined British genuflection to ‘independence’ and ‘artisan values’ represents a vaguer dream of returning to an imagined cottage-industrial idyll, and is part of our more general veneration of the ‘authentic’ – a veneration exploited by such companies as Pret A Manger. Once a stringently demanding aspiration of existentialists, authenticity is now merely a desirable property of a commercial commodity, whether it’s a takeaway Americano or a head of heirloom chard.
Comments
But that's got nothing at all to do with wanting some mystical authentic or artisanal virtue to be transmitted with my slightly-coffee-flavoured froth.
I avoid buying from Tesco because of their flagrant abuse of the planning system, their behaviour in Thailand, their tax-dodging, and many other reasons.
It's about politics and ethics, not style and consumerism.
I'm staggered that one reads such tosh in the LRB.
Tesco and its comparators (Walmart as the anti-Christ, Coles & Woolworths in my Australia - lovers of all practices and personnel Tescoian) are an engine for the accumulation and use and abuse of market power. The bankrupt tertiary economics syllabus has still to catch up. Check out the Competition Commission's April 2008 'Supply of Groceries in the UK' report, esp Ch.11, for a valiant attempt to gauge the abuse of monopsony power.
Tesco's equivalent in France (read Carrefour in particular) are now so powerful that they flout the law (esp re planning and building rules) with total impunity.
"But why should ‘artisan values’ be incompatible with corporate backing?" Corporate backing artisan values is an oxymoron. "a vaguer dream of returning to an imagined cottage-industrial idyll" I live that idyll daily; it's not a dream and it's tangible.
Isn't 'consumer sovereignty' supposed to be a core principle of a workable market? Information is fundamental to that principle. Misleading information, strategically constructed, is not merely dysfunctional, but unconsionable. And it is actionable.
Crouch End must be one of the most highly caffeinated suburbs of London, with at least a dozen coffee places within a five-minute walk. I tend to walk to the shops and bounce back home.