Pure Affectation
Deborah Friedell · Flies El Al
Two months before Richard Reid tried to blow up American Airlines 63 with his high-tops, he took a flight to Israel on El Al. The airline's security team questioned him, as they do all passengers, and couldn't find a reason not to let him fly; but his body was searched, his luggage was put through a decompression chamber and hand-checked, and an air marshal was put in the seat next to him. El Al likes to boast that the 9/11 hijackers would never have succeeded on one of their planes: I don't disbelieve them.
Last week I flew from London to Tel Aviv and back on El Al. Before my flights, security officers established that I'd celebrated my Bat Mitzvah – so why was my Hebrew so poor? But then the converse can also be suspicious: years ago one of my Israeli cousins flew El Al on his American passport, having forgotten his Israeli one. 'Why is your Hebrew so good?' he was asked, and taken to another room. I was asked why I was named Deborah and whether I had any siblings: I said I had a younger brother. 'Where does he live? Has he ever been to Israel? What does he do? What is his dissertation about?' I was asked what I was planning to see in Israel: which tourist sites, exactly? And then, at the very end, did I know that my accent went back and forth between British and American? 'Pure affectation,' I said, and I was allowed to board.
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Maybe -- but I had the luck of the draw when I left Israel as well. Two young women opened my suitcase and began to rummage through my clothes. They found some literature I'd picked up at the Sakakini Centre, a Palestinian cultural centre in Ramallah that holds concerts and poetry readings. Mahmoud Darwish had an office at the Sakakini and I'd been there to see him. One of the women interrogating me asked if I spoke Arabic. I said I didn't. 'But what about these brochures?' I pointed out that they were also in English, but this did not allay her suspicions. 'But you do speak Arabic?' she asked me, perhaps a dozen times. The search continued, and my clothes were in a pile. By now the other people in the queue probably knew which brand of underwear I wore. 'Ah ha, you do speak Arabic!' one of the women declared, very proud of her discovery. She handed me my notepad, written in illegible English that, from a certain vantage point, did look like Arabic, I suppose.
After about an hour, I was allowed through. 'This always happens to my husband,' said the woman behind me in the queue. 'He's Persian, and he looks like an Arab.'